Well I got all packed last night and set my alarm for 6am, thinking I'd be on the road before 7am. Jokes on me! I either didn't set my alarm or slept through it, because I woke up at 7:30! The amazing thing is I didn't panic, curse myself, or run around in circles like one legged wind up toy trying to turn back the clock by rushing. I just got up stretched, got dressed, ate a peach, and went downstairs to settle my bill. He got it all done, but when I looked at it I realized they had not charged me for the breakfast yesterday morning. So he had to redo all the computer stuff and print a new bill. I got out of there about 8:15am. The amazing thing is I knew that everything was exactly as it was supposed to be.
As I left the hotel I met another pilgrim woman and I said hola and she began talking to me. I couldn't understand a word she was saying. I thought all of my Spanish had leaked out of my ears while I slept. Then I said something in English and she said "Oh you speak English, good I need to practice mine. Turns out she is French, which is why I didn't understand a word she said. I don't know what part of "hola" made her think I spoke French. Maybe there is a French word that sounds like "hola."
We walked together for a while. She practiced her English, telling me this was her first day and that she hoped to make it to Hornillas, but she wasn't sure she could make it that far. She walked to Santiago four years ago. Two years ago she tried to do it again but had to stop in Burgos because of her leg. She couldn't walk last year because her mother was ill. I suggested she not push too hard and risk injuring her leg again. At this point it was obvious to me that we were not walking at the same pace. I wished her well and said I see her in Hornillos if she made it that far.
Then as I walked, I thought maybe that wasn't hospitable. Maybe I should have walked with her. But I also thought, this is my Camino too. This prompted a lot of reflection about being hospitable vs being codependent or people pleasing, hospitality vs self care, giving and getting, etc. These thoughts went around and around, back and forth until I was rudely interrupted by the astonishing beauty of the landscape. We are slowly making the climb to the meseta. I remember when I first went to Montana and looked up around. The concept of "big sky country" suddenly became clear to me. The meseta is like that for me. There is the yellow of the harvested wheat and then sky everywhere. The sky is so blue on the Camino.
There are some really pretty rivers along this part of the Camino. I stopped to gaze at one and take a picture. As I was standing there I realized I heard a large engine. I looked up and saw a car coming toward me, then I looked back and saw a huge truck hurtling toward the bridge from the other direction, he'll bent for leather. Now the thing about this bridge is that it was only big enough for either the truck, or the car, or me. There was not room for the three of us, not even enough room for the truck and the car. I suddenly realized the truck probably wouldn't be able to stop even if the driver wanted to or even knew I was there. Maybe too many brandy and coffees. This bridge had no sidewalks for pedestrians. I'd like to say my life flashed before my eyes, but there really wasn't time for even the abbreviated version. I said a word I won't repeat and started running, back pack bouncing, poles dragging. I made it to the edge just as I felt the wind from the truck. Turns out it was a milk truck with a big storage tank. I'm sure the driver got a good chuckle out of the fleeing pilgrim. I regret not having the presence of mind to give him the universal salute. I guess it was not my time. Somehow I believe, if I'm going to be taken out by a truck, it would be more appropriate if it were a Budweiser truck or John Walker Black Label. lol. It turns out the driver of the car must have been familiar with truckers practices in this area because he was waiting on the side of the road. I signaled for him to go ahead I was alright.
I made it to the albergue in Hornillos by 1:15 and somehow made better time and felt better on arrival than I had for days. Even thought about walking further, but sanity returned. I think the rest day was a good idea. I have another on planned for Leon, if all goes well. I think I will take that one as well.
When I stopped at the albergue, I thought it was the Municipal one, I didn't remember stopping in Hornillos last year, so I didn't know what to look for. This one has a communal dinner, bed, wifi, it looks like free Internet, and breakfast for less than 20€. After taking a shower and doing my laundry I went down the street looking for a bar to get some lunch. I saw this tall guy walking toward me with long black hair, a black tee shirt and a black leather motorcycle vest. It was the same guy I saw in the bar last year in one of the towns, so I got the the bar which was on this tiny plaza as he walked into the bar and I realized I did stay here last year and it was the place that had the yummy huge ensalada mixta for 4.5€. Oh boy! So I went in and had one. Now it may be time for a nap.
No comments:
Post a Comment