Day 28 - Los Arcos to Viana - August 12

Day 28 - Los Arcos to Viana - August 12 

Woke up again about 6:30am, packed up,stretched and left. I had decided to wait until Torres de Rio to get coffee and something to eat. Spent that first part of the hoke in quiet contemplation, or just trying to wake up. Your pick. I ran into Michael and Tim several times. They went out clubbing last night, if you can even do that before 10:30pm in Spain in a town with a population of less than 300. Anyway, like me, they were among the last out of the albergue. This is how you avoid the stampede. 

I was thinking today, probably a bad sign, that when someone says they love a certain albergue, it has  lot to do with the hospitaleros. At the municipal albergues where people are paid to be there, I find on the whole it's just a job for them and there is little warmth or Camino spirit. In the private ones, it is usually the owner and there is a little more care and friendliness. In the albergues with volunteers it is pot luck, depending on the people themselves and their training. 

At the albergue yesterday they were ok, but not warm and friendly. The young girls were more interested in talking to each other, than answering questions for or talking to the pilgrims. I asked one young gal if they had any ice or ice packs for my knees, she said, no. After I got some ice on a little bag from the bar and asked the older woman on the next shift if I could put it in the freezer marked private, the only freezer in the albergue, she looked at me like I was asking for her first born grand child, but acquiesced. When I went to put my dab of ice in the freezer I saw that not only did they have ice trays, they had about ten different kinds of blue ice. 

The adult hospitaleros also seemed more interested in interacting with each other than with the pilgrims. When I was in the kitchen and three of them were cooking their own dinner, I asked if the bowl of fruit on the table was for everyone to share. The woman just said it's yours, take it, and went back to her friends. Now the next group of hospitaleros at that albergue may be warm and caring. It's just chance, and maybe knowing which albergues have a training program. 

I showed up today at the Parroquial Albergue in Viana which is mats on the floor and donativo with a communal dinner and breakfast. The hospitalera, Maria, was warm, welcoming, helpful and friendly. I felt like she was glad I was here. 

I'm not saying this to complain or to say I don't like albergues any more. I still love albergues. I'm just really grateful for the training I got in Santa Barbara from Cheryl, Annie, Daniel, Franc and Jeanette. And I am going to try very hard to be warm and caring and put the comfort and welcome of the pilgrims first. I don't know if I will be successful all the time, or at all. 

Ok, so after these deep thoughts I was in Torres del Rio. There I met team Germany who had spent the night in Los Arcos in a different albergue. They had planned to go to Viana today, but mom wasn't feeling well. She blamed it on the tuna on her ensalada mixta. I said I had one of those and I was feeling ok, so was the older daughter. A

little while later, while walking I didn't feel so well. Luckily I was near a place where I could tuck in, off the trail. After a short while I felt much better and went on hiking. Sorry to get scatological on you but I figure if I'm going to give a realistic report I need to share the uncomfortable and inconvenient as well. Or you would think this whole thing is a walk in the park, which it is not. It is not supposed to be. 

So I took some pictures of the church in Los Arcos and then nothing until Torres de Rio. There I took pictures of Team Germany. The blond older daughter, 21 is in her second year of law school in Germany and the younger daughter, 9, is artistic and likes to create things out of trash. Quite a coincidence, because I am a lawyer and an artist. We are going to exchange pictures of my art from trash and hers when we get home.   

I also got a picture of the Three Germans and a dog, Susanna, Mark, and Nina and a dog named Hancock.  I took a picture of Santo Sepulchre, another 13th century octagonal building of unknown origins, and like Eunate, thought to be associated with the Templars. When I saw it I suddenly remembered that I stayed in Torres de Rio last year in the same albergue that Team Germany is staying in tonight. 

This is the portion of the Camino where my knee hurt so bad I was crying as I limped along using my poles as crutches. I was ready to call it quits, but I was trying to get to Logroño to see if I could maybe find a doctor. I did find a doctor who told me to ice it, elevate it and rest for four or five days. Wow, why didn't I remember that, I've been through this drill a number of times. But I did want to make sure nothing serious was wrong that could cause permanent damage. So I sat in a hostal for five days watching the Olympics and trying to turn the results over to God. 

Today I'm reluctantly reporting that my knee is having a Buen Camino. Reluctant because I'm knocking on wood. I don't want to jinx anything. 

After Torres del Rio I took pictures of a lot of scenery and old stuff. At Alto el Poyo I took a picture of the Capilla de la Virgen del Poyo which houses a statue of Mary that is said to keep returning to this place despite being relocated a number of times. Weird, huh?'

I finally got to Viana, checked into the albergue attached to the church, took a shower, did laundry, and went out to eat a take pictures. I took some of the church I'm attached to here, the Santa María de la Asuncíon. It is the final resting place of Cesare Borgia, who died at the siege of Viana. Who knew Viana had a siege?

Then there are ruins of a church/fortress built in the 13th century, the Iglesia de San Pedro. Because of extensive damage in the first Carlist war it was partially demolished. What remains has been turned into a lovely park. 

Really, I don't make this stuff up. There are some girls out in the church yard screaming for screamings sake. Trying to see who screams the loudest, I guess. It is quite a  racket. 

I went to the market to get some water and olives and when I came out the skies opened and water poured out, along with lightening and thunder. The electricity even went out a couple of times. I ran into Tim and Michael at the market. 

The couple that is walking with four children, a dog and little or no money joined us in the albergue. They have been sleeping outside but were getting soaked by the rain. I love that they got to stay here. The dog has been put up with some neighbors. 

I went to mass at 8pm. The church is a big old Gothic church it had been built as a church when Navarra and Castile Leon weren't playing well together. The responsorials sounded spectacular on the church acoustics. After the mass the priest did a cool pilgrim's blessing. He went around the circle and asked everyone where they were from, them he went to each person and sprinkled them with holy water. Just like they do for the animals. 

Then we went back to have dinner. What a feast. Thirty plus people around a table with all kinds of languages, and yet somehow everyone following the various conversations. Then we went up to the choir loft to see the church from that view, say a silent prayer, and sing a funny song. 

Now it is bed time. Please write I love getting comments and emails.