Day 77 - Ribadiso a Arca- September 30 - On the Camino 39 days

Day 77 - Ribadiso a Arca- September 30 -  On the Camino 39 days

Last night there were two french guys in our room. There was also a mic over stuffed chair which looked like it would be really comfortable to curl up in and read or write. I will never know because one of the french guys set all his stuff on it, apparently his alarm too, because when it we t off at 5:30am this morning it took him about five minutes to get to it and turn it off. So I guess I was supposed to get up early. lol

I got ready, stretched, went to the reception area and got a little cup of coffee from the machine, and looked for all of your messages. I got on the road about 6:30 am. I walked in the dark for a couple of hours because sunrise is about 8:30am these days. That makes it a little difficult to see the yellow arrows and other directional signs, even with a head lamp. That's one of the reasons I don't like walking in the dark. However, I didn't get off track in the dark this morning, I did it later in broad daylight. 

About 10:30am I remembered that I hadn't eaten any thing. So I stopped and had some café and tostada. They even had melocotín (peach) jam, my favorite. At this point in the journey everything is crowded, the bars, the trail, the albergue. It's hard to take a picture of the trail without people in it. Do it is hard to get off track because there are always people in front of you and behind you. But, I managed. I was flying along, when I saw a cute little small hog sitting guard at the end of his driveway and I was watching him and thinking about the stories of wild dogs on the Camino. The dog just watched me. He didn't bark or move, he just watched me. I passed him and suddenly I heard him barking. I looked back and there was a guy running. I thought that he was out for a jog. But he ran up beside me and started waving his hands. So I took my head phones off and he explained I had gone the wrong way. It was quite a way back to where I made the wrong turn. I thanked him profusely. He had left his pack with his two friends and ran after me. I felt so stupid coming back. I didn't have sufficient Spanish available to explain how dumb I felt. I just said, estoy muy tonto, meaning I'm very dumb. He put on his pack and the three of them walked on. 

Then while I was eating dinner I looked up and there he was with his friends. I went over and thanked him again. He said I was really going fast because he had to run about three hundred meters to catch me. His name is Sergio. Then the waiter introduced himself as Ricardo and gave me besos. 

Other than getting off track, today was a pretty calm day. There was no rain and the sun actually came out for a while. I ran into the Australian couple from the Pulpería. And a few other people I know by sight. Last night I had dinner with the young couple who have been teaching in Madrid and the older man they are traveling with. They met him or he met them on the Camino and they've been traveling together ever since. He lived in Latin America for many years and was also in the Peace Corps there many years ago. 

Well it's time to get my pack ready to leave early. I want to get to the Catedral for the Pilgrim's Mass at noon. 

Day 76 - Palas de Rei a Ribadiso - September 29 - On the Camino 38 days

Day 76 - Palas de Rei a Ribadiso - September 29 -  On the Camino 38 days

Well now that it is in the past I can tell on myself. Two days ago when it rained hard all day I kept thinking of ways I could "cheat" and take a taxi to a couple of places ahead of where I was going to stop. Of course I didn't, I'd only cheat myself. I was ok yesterday, but today when I started out it was one of those days that my pack was heavier than it was yesterday, my knee hurt and I didn't feel well. I thought to heck with it, who needs a second Compestela. But then I thought, "It isn't about the piece of paper. Which led me to think "What was it about then? Maybe it was about meeting the challenge and not being a wimp. Then I thought, "What is so bad about being a wimp?"  This is probably too much thinking. 

Meanwhile the weather is changing every half hour. When I left the albergue it was raining. So I had on two tank tops, a short sleeve shirt, my rain jacket, my knee brace,  my Star Trek pants, my hiking shorts without the legs and my rain pants. An hour or so goes by and the rain stops. It starts warming up. I realize I'm probably sluggish because I'm hot and stuffy in all these clothes. 

And amazingly at this very moment there is a bench by the side of the trail. So I sit down and start stripping down to my under pants on the bottom. Right there in front of God and all the passing pilgrims. I am way beyond caring. The older lady who sat down next to me to sigh and whine looked shocked. Everyone passing by just kept walking, some said "Buen Camino or waved. They all seemed pretty non plussed by my indecency. I finally got my hiking shorts on and was ready to go when the Perrogrino passed by. His owner recognized me as the one with the tattoo. So off I went on the Camino after a bush visit. With the clothes off and some good old rock and roll on the iPod, I was flying. 

About an hour later it started to rain again. So I stopped and put my rain pants back on. Then I got to Melide and it wasn't raining. So I had some pulpo and a coca cola light and chatted with a couple from Australia. He was born in Spain but moved to Australia when he was ten. He spoke Spanish well. There was also a couple there walking the Camino for there honeymoon. She was from Germany and he was from Brazil. They met in Santiago two years ago when he was working on his PhD and she was on a study abroad program. Isn't that cool?

Back to the story line. I took off my rain pants and rain jacket at Pulpería Exequiel

because it wasn't raining. I did this in the restroom, mot in the dining room. I left and started looking for the Camino. Melide is busy every day, but today was market day and the streets were crowded with vendors and stalls, people buying stuff and visiting with friends. All this in the intersection and side streets where the Camino exits the town. I found my way and just as I was about to leave the town it started pouring rain. Again on with the rain jacket and pants. Did I mention that for each of these costume changes I have to take the pack off lower it to the ground, take the rain cover off, either take out clothes or put them away, lift the pack back up, put it on and fasten it. Aren't you exhausted just reading this? ;) 

At some point in the day I recognized this section of the Camino from last year. I had dubbed it the Seven River Valleys from Hell, because this part of the trail goes down a steep incline to a river bed then up a steep incline, then down a steep incline to another river bed, over and over. I lost count both this year and last, but I think it is seven inclines and declines. I was ready to quit or at least stop at the next albergue and call it a day. About this time a woman with no back pack who I've seen the last couple of days walked by twirling her walking poles. lol I really was having a good time I was just tired. At some point I asked myself, "what else do you have to do this afternoon?" and I started laughing. 

Oh did I mention they had a marathon on this section of the Camino yesterday. I bet that was exciting. Runners and Peregrinos on the same trail. A trail full of mud and steep rocky downhills that had Peregrinos with poles slipping and sliding. I can't imagine running a marathon on that trail. Crazy! I found out there was a marathon because at the beginning of the day every time the trail crossed the road there were blue plastic water bottles strewn about the trail. At first I thought it was one of the tour groups. When I saw them I asked them about it and they told me about the marathon. We all agreed that we hoped somebody from the marathon would clean them up. 

Oh that reminds me, I forgot to tell you that yesterday I saw a Peregrino picking up trash on the Camino. Not just a little bit here and there. He had two medium size blue trash bags full of trash and he was wearing his pack bending over and picking up litter. I smiled and said, "Gracias" as I past. As a person who picks up litter on the beach, I really appreciated what he was doing.   

I will be in Santiago day after tomorrow, the first of October though I'm still hoping to walk to Finnisterre, which is another three or four days. . I'm sad that this adventure is coming to an end, but I also want it to be over. Does that make any sense? It has challenged me physically, emotionally, mentally, and spiritually. I have learned a lot about me and what i'm doing on this planet. But It has still left me with unanswered questions. I have felt pure unadulterated joy and extreme sadness. As I write this I have tears in my eyes. 

During this adventure a song from one of my Joan Baez albums would come on the iPod at the most reflective moments. The title is "God is God." That about sums it up. But some of the lyrics struck me. 

"And as our fate unfurls, every day that passes I'm sure about a little bit less"

"God of my little understanding don't care what name I call, Whether or not I believe doesn't matter at all

I receive the blessings

That every day on earth's another chance to get it right

Let this little light of mine shine and rage against the night"

"Just another lesson

Maybe someone's watching and wondering what I got

Maybe this is why I'm here on earth and maybe not."

Something about the line "or maybe not" I think for me it's connected to "every day that passes I'm sure about a little bit less. "

Well enough reflection. I think it is dinner time. 

Day 75 - Portomarín a Palas de Rei - September 28 - On the Camino 37 days

Day 75 - Portomarín a Palas de Rei - September 28 -  On the Camino 37 days

Woke up this morning at 6:30 and still did get out of the albergue until 8am. I was aiming for 7:30am, but what can I say. I was enjoying my donut peach, Greek yogurt with raspberries, toast and Starbucks via instant coffee. It was getting light when I left. I think God heard my prayer, well really more of a rant, because it didn't rain much today. There was a light drizzle or rain this morning for about an hour. Then it was just overcast with moments of sun and blue skies. Then about forty five minutes before I reached the albergue in Palas de Rei there was a light sprinkle and some wind. It's raining hard now, but I don't care because I tucked comfortably in the albergue. It would be just fine with me if it rained itself out tonight and was dry tomorrow. 

The walk today was very nice. The scenery just can't be beat. I stopped once for café and once again for sopa de lentajes (lentil soup) at the place with the hormigos grandes (large ants.) I had lots of things that happened today that I wanted to remember to share with you, but right now I can't remember them.

OMG, as I was writing this it started pouring rain. Go rain go, get it all out of your storm system.  Apparently the weather forecast says rain from now until the end of time. Of course, like the States a rain forecast can mean anything from a all day all night downpour to a slight drizzle for an hour. So we shall see. From the Spanish forecasts it seems like it will be mostly cloudy for the next week or more with a few showers. I hope that is correct. I really want to go to Finisterre, but not in pouring rain. 

I'm three fairly easy days from Santiago now. This year I've tried to stay in different towns or different albergues. It's been fun experiencing some of the smaller pueblos. Tomorrow might I will be staying in a small one, though I will be passing through Melide about lunch time for some pulpo (octopus)"

This evening I met a young couple who have been living in Madrid for two years teaching English as a second language. They met in Madrid. They are returning to the States to Seattle, where he is from. She is from San Diego. I think I would have picked San Diego. But they are young. 

I get to see several friends when I get to Santiago. That will be fun. Hopefully, if it stops raining for an hour, I'll get to do the Cathedral you which includes a tour of the roof. I love high places. Ask my daughter Leea, she has climbed a few with me. But I have to be careful and not get to close to the edge. I have this little voice that pops up and says, "what would it be like if you jumped" I'm not suicidal, just curious. 

I met these two older gents on the trail today. We kept passing each other. At one point they were tailgating me, so I just stopped. I really don't like all the passing, whether it is me or someone else. That's why I like to leave after everyone else is well ahead of me. Anyway, one of the gents pointed to my back pack and commented that it was large. I think he was French, but I'm not sure. I just know English is not his first language. I explained that the rain cover made it look bigger than it was. He pointed to his day pack and said it was very small. I don't know if he was bragging or embarrassed. I asked if he had transported the rest of his stuff and he said he had. He asked if I had transported stuff. I said that everything I own is in my pack. Then I thought that makes it sound like I am a homeless person or a vagabond. Then I thought, well, I guess I sort of am homeless and a vagabond. lol John always says that camping is rich people practicing homelessness. 

Well, I'm obviously rambling so I should probably get some sleep. 

Day 74 - Sarria a Portomarín - September 27 - On the Camino 36 days

Day 74 - Sarria a Portomarín - September 27 -  On the Camino 36 days

I woke up this morning about 6:30am, packed up, went to a local bar for café y tostado. I had heard it was going to rain. I was hoping it wouldn't rain or if it did it would be after I got to wherever I was going. I started walking and when I got to the end of the town and the town lights, I realized I hadn't got my head lamp out to wear this morning bso I had to stop, take off my pack and look for my head lamp. Meanwhile a man hearing noise outside his house came out to investigate. When he saw a disorganized peregrina he must have decided his property and his life were safe because he was very friendly. He asked me if I wanted help with my head lamp and commented that I was going to need it because it was very dark outside the town. He wished me a Buen Camino, I walked on and he went back in his house. 

About half an hour into the walk it started to sprinkle, so I stopped again and put on my rain jacket and the rain cover on my pack. Lucky I stopped and did this because it began to rain and continued to rain for the next seven hours. It vacillated between steady rain and pouring rain. Those of you who know me well know I hate rain. I think it would be nice if it only rained at night while I'm sleeping, so the plants and flowers would get the water they need and I wouldn't have to experience rain. What?! I think this is perfectly reasonable. For those of you who profess to like rain, I don't believe you and a pox on your house. I love heat, dry heat. I think snow is tolerable on post cards. That's all the closer I want to get to the "evil white."

I love the meseta in summer when it is hot and dry and full of Peregrinos jovenes. But I survived. And arrived at the albergue in Portomarín soaked to the bone. At some point I stopped, had a café, and put on my rain pants. But at that point I was so wet it didn't matter. For the first few hours I tried to avoid the puddles on the trail by stepping on the rocks or high spots. My boots are water resistant, but not water proof.  After a while it was useless, there were no rocks or high spots, just water. The people with water proof boots told me that today it didn't make any difference. Their boots got soaked too. My main concern about my boots getting wet, is that wet boots encourage blisters. I think they do more than encourage them, I think they cheer them on. lol. 

Now that I have finished whining, I must admit that the color of the landscape in the rain is other worldly. It's like neon or psychedelic. Sara, Bruce and Matty said that Galicia is a lot like Ireland, only better. When I wasn't staring at the trail trying to figure out the water patterns, like some real life puzzle, I really loved the colors. Even the dead hay was glowing. It's supposed to rain for two to five more days. Just shoot me. :). I'm sorry I ever said the Camino was supposed to be hard. This is not what I had in mind. I was thinking physically hard up and down hills, being out often comfort zone mentally or emotionally, stretching spiritually. It may even include flies, snoring, rudeness, bug bites, disappointments, etc. but not rain for heavens sake. That is just way beyond the pale.  

So I get to Portomarín and the albergue is not right on the path so I decide to have a café before I go look for it. The pages from my guide book are sopping wet (I so wish some one would offer a good digital one) so I spread them out to dry while I drink my café. The pages are so wet that the ink has smeared. I put the pages between paper napkins to dry them. After my café I find the albergue. The women who work there are so excited I speak Spanish. I'm excited that someone thinks I speak Spanish. lol they give me some newspaper to put in my boots to dry them. I never heard of this before. Of course I avoid rain. I change into my dry clothes, arrange to get my wet ones washed and dried, and go to have a pilgrim's meal. I had ensalada mixta, roast pork and fries, and ice cream cake. I ran into the two nurses from Canada at the restaurant and we chatted. 

After eating I go to the mercado and get stuff for breakfast. Yes, I'm going to try this again. Wish me luck. Then I came back to the Albergur and now I'm icing my knee with the ice pack they gave me to use.   

There are lot of people coming to make reservations for tomorrow night. Apparently some folks are going to lay over until the storm blows over. The taxis were also very busy today picking people up off the Camino and taking them somewhere dry. It's nice to know there are some rational people in the world.  

Day 73 - Samos a Sarria - September 26 - On the Camino 35 days

Day 73 - Samos a Sarria - September 26 -  On the Camino 35 days

Woke up a little after 7am. The sun is coming up later and the days are cooler, so people are sleeping a little later. I'm still one of the last to leave the albergue.

Decided to fix my own breakfast. Not a good idea before having coffee. I started with burning the toast, moldy jam and unwashed fruit. I may die before I get this posted, but I will die a happy pilgrim. I had a thought the other day while passing another cemetery where a burial was occurring. I noticed that even though the funeral was here in a small village in Spain, the hearse looked the same and the people looked as sad or as disinterested as they would at a funeral in my hometown. So my next thought was "dead is dead no matter where you are." Doesn't everyone have thoughts like this when walking through a magical landscape? I think I'll stick to breakfast in the bars. I can't be trusted without caffeine. 

I got out of the albergue without burning it to the ground around 9am. The walk to Sarria was enchanting. I really wasn't all that excited about the monastery tour or the vespers, but the walk out to Samos and the walk out of Samos is not to be missed. It was some of the most beautiful of the Camino. And the best thing about it is that there wasn't a mob of pilgrims. Since I left late both days, I may have seen two or three people the whole day. It was a nice time of quiet before joining the rushing stream in Sarria. 

If I ever do the Frances again it will be in July/August. I didn't think about it beforehand, but all the children are back in school. There are no youth groups, scouts or children traveling with their parents. In July and August there are lots of kids out here. I miss the children. I got an email from Darlene and Bruce and one from Team Germany. They are all back home and missing the Camino. I understand. We all miss the Camino at some point in time, unless we do what a few people do and choose to stay and make a life here. But I hope to carry the Camino with me when I leave. I have experienced and learned so many more things. I learned a lot last year and this year just builds on that. If last year is any predictor, I will have a whole bunch more to learn from the Camino at home. 

I met Matty and Bruce at the bar where the route from Triacastla and the route from Samos meet up. We had a snack and café. And a lovely conversation. I hope I see them again. Mike and Marion are here. I don't know how this happened because they didn't go to Samos, took the direct route from Triacastela. I didn't get a chance to ask him because he rushed off. He's seemed a little grumpy the last two times I've seen him. Oh well. Not my pig, etc.

I think I'll go check the laundry. It's done. Time to get the pack ready for tomorrow. 

I got to Sarria. It isn't as busy as I expected. It's after five and there are still plenty of beds. I got checked in, took a shower, did my laundry and now I am relaxing. Oh yeah I visited the Bazaar Chino here in Sarria, the one where I got my Star Trek pants last year. But, alas, they didn't have any more so I can't bring any home for you. They are really special. They have a silver lining that keeps you warm when it's cold and cool when it's hot. And their stretchy. Sorry. I love the Bazaar Chino. It's like the 99cent store, only more interesting. 

Oh yeah, I found my leg here in Sarria. So, it's my lucky town! My leg was at the bottom of my back pack where I looked at least twice last night. I think the bears were hiding it from me. But they deny it. 

At dinner tonight I met a friend of Bill's so we talked for a while after dinner. I didn't want to stay in Sarria and when I got here I realized I didn't check into the albergue I intended to stay in. But my mantra is, "I will get where I'm supposed to be, when I'm supposed to be the." It sure is true today. I also have roommates from the Big Island in Hawaii. They are a mother and daughter. They are originally from San Luis Obispo. 

Day 70 - Pereje a O Cebreiro - September 23 - On the Camino 32 days

Day 70 -  Pereje a O Cebreiro -  September 23 -  On the Camino 32 days

Some mornings you wake up and your back pack is heavier than it was yesterday, even though there is nothing in it this morning that wasn't in it yesterday. Your legs feel like they have weights tied to them. That was me this morning. People moving around woke me up at 5:30am, so by 5:45am I realized I was not going back to sleep. I got up, did my stretching, put the last things in my pack, and was ready to go. My back felt a little sore and when I put the pack on it felt so heavy. But off I went. We are having great weather, for me anyway, everyone else is talking about how hot it is. The mornings are crisp, this morning I could see my breath, but by 8am I took off my fleece and my Star Trek pants I wear under my hiking pants when it is cold. 

Once I got, café and toast with jam, I was off and running, or walking fast. I put the IPod on my Fast playlist and flew. I was passing people left and right. I wasn't really trying to pass people, I was just on a roll. By 10:30 I was almost to La Faba and had had a 30 minute coffee and toast break. The "almost to La Faba is key here. The whole to LaFaba is uphill, but the last few miles is through one of the most beautiful parts of the trail, but also one of the most brutal uphill climbs, second only to the climb to O Cebreiro, which comes right after La Faba. But I got to LaFaba at noon and the albergue didn't open until 2pm. I thought I had some gas left in the tank and would just go on. 

My memory of those those last few miles to O Cebreiro from last year was kind of hazy, but I don't remember it being that tough. What I discounted was the fact that last year I hiked to LaFaba, spent the night resting in the Albergue, and started for O Cebreiro in a drizzle in the morning. So I was probably not hot and tired. I felt like I have at times in aerobic classes when I think the muscles in my legs are just going to turn to jello. However, I just took lots of little breaks and tried to keep a rhythm that kept me from needing more oxygen than I was taking in. 

When I arrived, I checked into the municipal albergue, set everything on my bed and went to eat. I had an ensalada mixta, which would have been plenty, but I didn't know you could have it separate from the pilgrim's menu. The waitress said it was either the pilgrim's menu or Raciones (small portions, something less than a meal, like a bowl of soup), and their weren't any Raciones that blew my dress up at that moment. I didn't think to ask if I could just have the ensalada the French guy that came and and sat at my table did ask and did get just an ensalada mixta. That didn't come with bread, so he just grabbed a piece of mine, without asking, I might add. No comment. Anyway, I ate the ensalada (and they had balsamic vinegar! I was in heaven.) then I ate the pork chop and some if the fries. There are carbs or something in fries that you need for long hikes, right? And then I had Tarte Santiago. Oh yum. And café con leche with sugar. Well the result was a stomach ache which is just now going away after six hours. I can only eat small amounts, often, but small amounts the stomach aches are great aversion therapy, but sometimes I forget. 

I had a nice walk around the village. They have the typical Galician thatched conical roofs and some nice building. Went to the church a bought a big candle for a friend and got a sello. Apparently the guy who does the sellos and sells the candles took a vow of silence because he didn't talk at all. I could never do that, obviously. He lit the candle for me and I went and put it in a nice spot under a stone arch. I'll send her a picture. I love lighting candles. I'm not a practicing Catholic, but I've retained the habit of lighting candles. 

As I was writing this and icing my knee, the bag holding the ice and melted ice (Ivey water) leaked onto me encased in my Star Trek pants and my sleeping sac. If it weren't almost 8pm this would be a no brainer. Oh well, all will be well. 

Some fun and funny things and one annoying thing happened today. The annoying thing is I ran into a tour group of about 25 people on the Camino. They have a tour director who makes reservations for them (which blocked out the only albergue in Laguna Castilla) They don't carry back packs. And they seem to think the other pilgrims are like native people in a strange land. Very bizarre. What was annoying to me is that the climb to La Faba is one of my favorite parts of the Camino, it reminds me of a Hobbit forest. I keep expecting to see Bilbo Baggins around the next corner. Except this time the tour group was there. I felt like I was at Disneyland. They were in front if me and behind me, and since they didn't have packs, one by one they expected me to get out of their way so they could catch up with their friends. Oh well, everyone gets to do the Camino the way they want and I could have just stopped for twenty or thirty minutes and let them get far from me and had a nice rest. 

Fun things, i was walking up the trail somewhere before La Faba and a guy was taking eight or so cows down the trail. I backed up to the side of the trail give them room to pass. For some reason they wanted to check me out, so they came right up to me. Things with horns and heavy feet make me take a deep breath. Later on the trek up to O Cebreiro, a horse that was trotting down a steep rocky path because his owner was calling him to hour up slipped just as he came along side me. Another deep breath. The owner had apparently taken several people up the hill and was bringing the horses back home. You can rent horses in Herrios to ride up to O Cebreiro. When the horses were coming down I thought about asking the owner how much it would cost to ride up those last three kilometers. lol 

Another funny episode is that of the spider. There was a medium size spider crawling down the narrow aisle between our beds and a girl was trying to get her boy friend to kill it, but he wouldn't. In the old days, like last month, I would have just stomped on him and smushed his little spider guts. But now that I'm not killing flys, I suppose I shouldn't kill spiders either. 

Oh yes, Tito's here. I like that a donkey is like part of my Camino family. It's like a reunion here. Mike and Marion from Atlanta are here. I just had a lovely chat with two young people from Atlanta. My roomie from New Zealand (I must ask for her name again) whom I last saw outside the albergue in Villafranca showed up here. Several of the people I've met and talked to are also here. I met two women from Canada who are sisters at lunch today. 

Everything seems to be dry or drying. The sunset was magnificent! I wanted to spend the night here because I've heard that in clear weather the sunrises are very nice. 

Oh yeah, my knee and right big toe were brave little troopers today. I checked my toe tonight and the blister under the toenail has stayed deflated, despite today's trek, and there is no sign of infection. Tomorrow is another big downhill, so keep your fingers crossed. Of course by the time you read this, I will already be down the hill. ;)

Day 72 - Triacastela a Samos - September 25 - On the Camino 34 days

Day 72 - Triacastela a Samos - September 25 -  On the Camino 34 days

Well it has been a lovely day. I've had lots of opportunities to practice mind control, mine not yours. I've taken over the Camino. I know who is doing it right and who isn't. Little Judge Nancy has her black robes on and gavel in hand. I have to constantly say to myself, "it's not my pig and it's not my farm." 

I had the morning to myself which didn't give me much opportunity to play judge. I have often thought I would get along better with people if I lived on a desert

island. The walk this morning was magical. I kept expecting King Arthur to come around the corner on his white steed. The small villages were more than charming. There were rivers all the way. 

I lost my leg! I stopped this morning on the trail to take a picture and take off my fleece and the zip off legs from my pants. Apparently I left one of the legs on the trail because I can't find it any where. I was going to throw the other one away, but decided to wait a day or two and give it a chance to show up. 

And tonight I got to have a pilgrim dinner. Greer was in the same albergue. I had gone to the store and got stuff to make pasta for me. When I got back from the

store I told Greer I was making pasta and if she wanted to join me there was plenty. Before I knew what was happening her whole room wanted to join and were making a shopping list for more supplies. Then a couple of guys ask if they could join us. So the shopping was done and when I got back from my monastery tour we started cooking. We had grapes and cheese for starters. Some had wine and I and two others had a lemon soda. Everything was yummy. We found some chorizo and sausages left by yesterday's pilgrims we chopped up. I had bought a red pepper and an onion, they got a bottle of tomato sauce, some stewed tomatoes, and green olivas that we used. It was yummilicious. We ended up feeding eleven people. Anna from Holland, Pierre from France, Greer from San Francisco ( Jess got sick and stayed in Villafranca,) Matty, Butch and Sara from Ireland, a young Spanish man, and a woman from Germany. And the albergue had a dishwasher!! That is very unusual. But we had everything cleaned up and were read for vespers at 7:15.   

Day 71 - O Cebreiro a Triacastela- September 24 - On the Camino 33 days

Day 71 -  O Cebreiro a Triacastela-  September 24 -  On the Camino 33 days

I forgot that there was a lot of uphill after O Cebriero. If I had remembered, I might not have gotten out of bed this morning. They could have just rolled me up in the paper sheets and thrown me in the trash. But sometimes a faulty mind is a gift. I got up and saw a gorgeous sunrise. It had lots of clouds to bounce off of, because it was cloudy but warm today. About half an hour after I started walking uphill, my muscles called an emergency meeting and said, "what were you thinking?" I had no sensible answer for why a 67 year old woman was stomping around these hills. And then I looked off in the distance. The answer is that Galicia is so stunningly beautiful it takes my breath away. Well, part of the lack of breath could be the climb. I could take a picture every five seconds and they would all be amazing. 

Last night my left big toe looked and felt pretty good, but I thought I would tape it anyway since I had some downhill to do today. This morning when I went to put my socks on, I realized I taped the wrong big toe. lol though I figured this was a sign that it was hurting anyone. And the downhill was pretty gradual compared to the track down to Roncevalles and the one after Cruz de Ferro. Knee and toe are grateful. 

Tonight all my body parts are working ok. Every morning the last few days my back hurts and I think I'm not going to be able to carry the pack. Then I put it on and start walking. After a while, when I think about it, I realize my back doesn't hurt any more.  

I have to say that one more time O Cebreiro left me on more time feeling like I just left Caminoland at Disneyland. Last year I thought it was just because I only stopped for café in the place with the gift shop attached selling Camino trinkets, which most likely were made in China. I was wondering, "Who buys this stuff?" I can't imagine Pilgrims buying it, because they would have to carry it. They must run tour buses through here. Well, this year I stayed over night and the feeling was even stronger. The sunset and sunrise were beautiful and the views extraordinary. But the town itself struck me as incredibly unauthentic. It didn't seem like a place where people actually lived. Maybe it's because I had just walked through so many little villages where people clearly lived and worked raising cattle, growing crops, etc.

Tito is still with us. Charlie has also shown up here. He caught up with me. He told me Tito's owners name but I forgot it. I saw him in town though. Charlie also told me there is a problem of some sort with Tito's right front leg. I'll have to get more info. I saw Charlie again this morning in the bathroom. I know how strange that sounds, but on the Camino it is not strange at all. Anyway, I asked about Tito's owners name and it is Gregonio. Gregonio and Tito. 

One of the ladies from the tour group was hobbling along. She looked like she was in a great deal of pain. I felt bad for her, I know how that feels. And the whole group was waiting for her a ways up the road. That must feel awful. It's bad enough to be in pain hobbling along slowly, but to know there are twenty or more people sitting around waiting for you must be really terrible, because then you try to walk faster than you can. I think they eventually sent a car to pick her up and maybe take her to a doctor. The group is British by the way. I was glad they were not American. The whole group thing would upset my notion of Americans as intrepid explorers, Davy Crocket king of the wild frontier and all that. 

We have a snorer in the room. I knew he would be a snorer, because everything he did was noisy. He was taking a shower when I was and he was huffing and puffing in th shower. He got out of the shower and blew his nose noisily in the sink. His snoring just woke up the guy next to me who got up and went somewhere. So funny. I'll just try to think vespers. The snorer stopped snoring while I was writing this and was quiet all night. Maybe he just needed to get to deep sleep. 

I was telling a friend that even thoughI am having so much fun, I still get cranky thoughts. Then I have to remind myself that being here, being alive, being healthy enough to do this, it's all a gift. 

I was just finishing my ensalada mixta when Mike and Marion walked up to have a meal. So I grabbed my café and joined them. Mike was considering having a steak dish but he  didn't know which one it was on the menu. I had seen this young man eating the steak, so I asked which one he had. He ended up joining us and we all chatted. The young man was from Holland. He had just finished walking from Saint Jean and was in Santiago a few days ago. He met a guy that had bicycled to Santiago on a mountain bike. The guy said he was flying home and needed to sell his bike cheap. So this guy bought it and started riding from Santiago to Holland. He even bought a map, he showed it to us. He road 100km the first day and today had already ridden 75km. He just stopped to eat. Amazing! 

The news is on the TV in the restaurant and they are televising the Congress of Spain. The Vice President is a woman, about one third to one half of the members are women, and the two people debating are women. Amazing!

Day 68 - Molinseca a Cacabellos - September 21 - On the Camino 30 days

Day 68 - Molinseca a Cacabellos - September 21 -  On the Camino 30 days

There was a Spanish group, three women and one man, with matching tee shirts that said, "Caminantes" and they were so noisy. They were constantly talking at full voice, not even concerned with the other people in the room. They did this last night after 10pm when the lights were out and people were sleeping and again this morning when the lights were still out and people were still sleeping. I'm sure they are nice people but they seemed to be so close knit that they aren't aware there are other people. I think this is a shame on the Camino, because if you don't talk to new people, don't even know they exist, you miss out on a lot. I'm glad I walk alone, because then I am like a free molecule and can attach at random. 

Last night I sat with Mike and Marion, and a guy named James from Ontario, California.  We had fun chatting about all manner of things and eating yummy food. Tonight they have a free mini bus to take us up the road to a restaurant for dinner. I think Mike, Marion, Jess, and I are all on the 6pm bus. For some reason we all ended up in the same little town in the same albergue. It's the municipal one. I passed one building in town that said it was an albergue, but in fact was a hotel charging 36€ for a single room. It was a challenge finding the albergue because it is at the very end of the town and there were a lot of places to stay between the beginning of town and end of town.  The municipal albergue is 5€ and is really trippy. It's on the church grounds and consists of a semi circle of little bungalow type rooms with two beds in each bungalow. Then the bathrooms, showers, wash tubs and drying racks are at the middle or bottom of the semi circle.

Jess was telling me about when she was walking and all the arrows to the town were painted over or marked out. I asked her if it was Villa Mazarife, the town I wanted to stay in but couldn't get to. She said the reason the signs were painted over is because two of the albergues in town are under reconstruction so there are forty less beds which leaves only 7 beds. I would have been coming into town late and certainly would not have been there in time to get one of the beds. So once again the Camino took care of me. 

Dinners was fun, filling and long. We were signed up for the 6pm dinner and didn't get any food until seven, and just got done at 8:30. There weren't any wine drinkers at our table and everyone was tired. I think that's why we all opted for the early dinner we had a young woman at our table who had gotten on her bike at her home in Amsterdam and is riding to Santiago. She's only got a couple of days left. It's about 2500 kilometers or about 1500 miles! We had my room mate too who is from Holland and a woman from Denmark. We all spoke English, so no one was left out. 

I met a man who had a little bear on his back pack. I stopped and talked to him and took a picture. He said he got the bear in Santiago last year and the bear's name was Tiago, Gallego for Santiago. Mr Burple and Berry were very excited to see another bear. 

I replaced my head lamp in Ponferrado, but forgot to take a picture of the knights Templar Castle or the church. Oh well, I have pictures from last year. I don't think they've changed much. 

I saw two Perigrinos on horseback today. And then a guy who is walking the albergue with his donkey Tito showed up at the albergue. It must have been animal day on the Camino. 

Day 66 - Astorga a Foncebadón- September 19 - On the Camino 28 days

Day 66 -  Astorga a Foncebadón- September 19 - 

On the Camino 28 days

A surprising morning. The first surprise was that I woke up at 6am an got walking before 7:30am. And I am so glad I did. There was a full moon and about 8am as I was leaving the out skirts of Astorga it was on the horizon to the west just as the sun was coming up from the east. Both were inspiring sights. And the funny/ surprising thing about this is that last night I set my alarm for 6am. Then when I was writing my blog I noticed I wasn't enjoying it, I felt rushed. And then I realized I was feeling rushed because I had the alarm set for six. So I thought to my self, "turn off the alarm silly girl. If you are supposed to be up at six, you will be." And I was, and I was. Incredible

The next surprise had to do with my flip flops. You know the pretty purple ones I bought in Santiago, because I left mine at home? Well at Bercianos every once in a while I would feel a sharp poke and I just figured it was a little rock with a sharp point. The flops are the cheap kind and not very thick. But it was always the same flop in the same spot. Every once in a while when it would happen, I would check the old stone. I'd never find a sharp stone. Well this morning I had the flop in my hand for some reason and there was a thumb tack in it. Duh!

My next surprise came this morning when I came down stairs to have my yogurt, melon and cabra (goat) cheese for breakfast. It was gone! I'm starting to think nasty thoughts about people stealing my food when I notice a sign on the shelf that says "libre" meaning free. I forgot all about this. I don't know why it didn't come up before on the Camino. I remember from last year that albergues with kitchens and refrigerators often have a shelf where you can leave food you don't want for other pilgrims. Well, I had left my food on the shelf that says basically, "somebody left this, please feel free to eat it." lol so I had some instant coffee and some of my artisan chocolate bar with big almonds and took off. 

We started a long slow twelve mile climb followed by a kick ass four mile steep climb over a very rocky trail. The twelve miles were work but fun. People kept telling me I was a fast walker. I don't feel fast at all. Them one woman from Seattle asked what was my mission or purpose with the bears. I said they are my friends. She asked if she could take a picture of them because they were so cute.  During the last four miles when I just didn't think I could take another step, I was wondering if they might have an airlift taxi available. 

Well I finally made it to Foncebadón and went to the Mount Irago albergue because my guide book said it had good food, vegetarian meals,yoga, and a moderate hippie vibe. Sounded like just the thing for me. I got here about 2:30pm which is not late on the Camino, but they were full, completo. But the guy said he had an extra place. I asked if I could see it. We walked by a goat, through a bunch of chickens running around and rabbits to an out building with mattresses on the floor. I said, "muy bien." He said the bathroom is upstairs. It was five euros instead of the normal eight. I found out later when two American girls came in that these were the only places in town. Everything is full. Apparently there is one albergue that holds forty people that has bee under construction for a year or so. It was supposed to be finished last year. So there are not as many beds as the guidebooks say. Anyway, grateful to have a place to rest my weary body. Oh yeah, the toilet is the Chinese style squat affair. Not a big deal it's a lot newer and cleaner than the ones I used for a month in China. Besides I squat by the side of the road. This is a lot cleaner and private than that. 

So I'm stretching and listening to Lizzie, a young woman from Vermont and the other two Young Americans from San Francisco and Seattle talking, when suddenly I hear a young man's voice with an Italian accent ask to the room in general, "Do you mind if I chafe my underwear in here. I was startled, because on the Camino people run about in all states of undress. There's just not accommodation for a lot of privacy. You get used to it real quick. I figure I'm never going to see these people again. Last night I was treated to a couple of sights I could have gladly lived my whole life without witnessing. One was a back view of a sturdy built woman from Vienna in a thing that was two or three sizes too small. It looked painful. ;)

Tomorrow, if God agrees, I will see the sunrise and almost full moon set at Cruz de Ferro. For all of my friends who gave me things they wanted to let go of, this is your last chance. If you want back whatever worry, problem, resentment, etc. speak now. I've already carried across Spain and up that nasty hill, but if you want it back, I'll bring it back to you.  Otherwise, take a deep inhale, and with the exhale say, "it's yours God."

Signing off for now. 

Day 65 - Hospital de Obrigo a Astorga - September 18 - on the Camino 27 days

Day 65 - Hospital de Obrigo a Astorga - September 18 - on  the Camino 27 days

Got up late this morning, didn't get on the road until almost 9am. But I had a nice piece of the vegan apple cake for breakfast. It was like coffee cake. Did my stretching, got organized and finally hit the road. I started to panic an then my mantra kicked in, "I'll get where I'm supposed to be when I'm supposed to be there. On the way I picked some little blueberries by the side of the road. It was a lovely walk today on country roads. We started the slow long climb through the foothills. Tomorrow we start climbing the mountains. 

The last town that was supposed to have food, Sanibañez, had two bars but they were both closed. It wasn't the time (it was mid morning) and it wasn't morning. Luckily I had enough water. Later in the day I passed David's fruit, juice, water, coffee, etc stand. This guy is amazing.  He provides all this stuff for free, accepts donations. He lives there in a little sort of lean to shelter. Last year I didn't even stop. This year I got some water and watermelon, and a sello. Had a little visit with David. Before I got to his stand, I met a lovely young Spanish woman coming from the other direction carrying two large empty plastic bottles. She had the sweetest smile. After I passed her, I saw the stand and realized she was probably walking back to town to get water. 

I arrived Astorga at about 1:30 pm, took my shower, did my laundry and went to the market for dinner and breakfast stuff. I got half a melon, four yogurts, cheese, bread and olives. Oh I also got a bag of frozen peas for my knee. It's ok but I use preventative measures. Then I was ready for sight seeing. I'm staying in the Siervas de Maria which holds about 156 people and has a kitchen about the size of a shower stall. It was a riot watching everyone juggle around cooking, all different languages flying around. But everyone ate. I met two Italians, a guy from Brazil, a guy from Canada, one from Denmark, and several others there was one Italian guy who had been a successful business man, he walked the Camino, sold everything he owned and bought an albergue. Amazing. 

 Right next to my albergue is a lovely park with a gazillion birds singing, trees, people laying in the grass, and the remains of old defensive walls. In the other direction are some old Roman ruins and you can see the baths and even some mosaic floor. They have a little display showing the floor plan. 

Them I went off to the Museo de Chocolate. It was very small, but interesting. I didn't buy chocolate there because they didn't have the kind I liked. I did find some in a shop. They have about a hundred shops selling chocolate. How did I miss all this last year? I also went to the Cathedral and to the Gaudi palace, which was built as a palace for some Bishop, was magnificent, like most Gaudi buildings. The retablo in the Cathedral was great, but hard to see. It was really dark. 

I returned to the albergue, had something to eat, and now I'm settled in for the night. 

Day 69 - Cacabellos a Pereje- September 22 - On the Camino 31 days

Day 69 - Cacabellos a Pereje- September 22 -  On the Camino 31 days

Well it's been another day of surprises. Yesterday my plan was to take a rest day. I was going to walk to Villafranca (about five miles,) stay in what looked like a nice albergue and rest my knee and tend to my left big toe nail that has been very cranky and distorted itself out of shape since the nasty downhill after the Cruz de Ferro. That was my plan. 

So I slept in until 7 and left the albergue about 8:30am. I only had five miles to go and my guidebook said the albergue opened at 11:30am. So I walked about a mile to Pieros where we had dinner last night and got some yogurt, tostado and café for a relaxed breakfast. Then I started walking again Tito and his burro were right near me. I remembered I was going to take the alternate route through the vineyards. I had to backtrack a little but I got on the right track. It was going to add some extra mileage, but it was worth it the regular route goes on the highway and is not only dangerous, it's tedious. 

The track through the vineyard was lovely. I only saw four other peregrinas the whole morning, two on bikes and two walking. The houses in this whole region are very nice. I don't think the wine business is suffering from the economy. It might even be better for business. Anyway it went through a sweet little pueblo named Valtuille.

During this hike I got teary eyed thinking about how lucky I was to be there. 

I saw Tito and his owner over and over again today.

One time today he was way ahead of his owner and I walked by and was talking to him, then a car was coming so I kept talking and he followed me over to the side of the road. I don't know whether he was helping me get to the side of the road or if I was helping him, but the car passed by and we were unscathed. lol

This track dropped me in Villafranca by the municipal albergue. What I didn't know at the time was that the albergue I was looking for was two or more kilometers (about a mile and a half) on the other side of town. At this point my big toe his kicking and screaming. As I go through town I stop at the market and get some groceries because my roommate from last night and I agreed we'd both go to this albergue and make pasta for dinner. It's Sunday in Spain so your lucky if the market is open at all. If they are open they usually close by noon. So I decided to get the stuff and we could split the cost later. I got a red pepper, two tomatoes, a sweet onion, mushrooms, tomato sauce, yogurt for breakfast, bread, cheese for lunch, pasta, and a piece of apple tart. Oh and a liter and a half of water.  Yummy I thought as I started lugging this stuff toward the albergue. 

I pass my roommate and she told me the albergue doesn't open until one. I thought that only slightly odd because the guide books quite often have incorrect or outdated information. She said she left her bag at the door and there weren't any bags there. It was about 11:30am at this time and I'm thinking this will kind of eat up my plans for resting my knee.  So I went and left my bag and groceries. I was number two. Some other pilgrims came and I went to get something cold to drink and use the facilities at the bar. 

I get back to the albergue about noon and sit and read. Suddenly I hear this one pilgrim saying that there are no beds left, they are all reserved. There's no sign on the door to this affect. Normally when albergues are full they post a note on the door. So I think maybe this guy got it wrong. So my room mate comes up and we use her phone to call. Oh did I mention that today it's been three days since I had any phone service. I was walking at the time I had this brilliant recollection, but decided to deal with it when I got into the albergue and sat down. 

Back to the story line. We call and sure enough there are no beds for tonight. The next albergue going forward is a municipal albergue in Pereje about three miles away or going backward there is the municipal albergue in Villafranca is about a mile and a half away. Pilgrims do not like to go backward, but I was sure my toe would cooperate. I chose to go forward. I left most of the groceries because I couldn't carry them three miles and I didn't think the albergue had a kitchen. I did bring the piece of apple tart, the cheese and the bread. I have peanut or almond butter, and olives. I figured with those five things I wouldn't starve. 

I kept repeating my mantra, "I'll get where I'm supposed to be when I' supposed to be there. Today, since they hadn't posted a sign so I could have walked on earlier, I kept saying that today mus be about the second part, "when I'm supposed to be there."

The albergue in Pereje is just fine, it has regular beds, no bumping my head, the is lovely,  I got my laundry washed, and the bar had a fantastic ensalada mixta for only 3.5€. I've tended to my toe, iced my knee, and all is well in Nancy's world. 

Day 67 - Foncebadón a Molinseca - September 20 - On the Camino 29 days

Day 67 - Foncebadón a Molinseca - September 20 -  On the Camino 29 days

0K when I left you yesterday I was planning on going up to Cruz de Ferro to see the sunrise and the moon set, unless God had other plans. Shortly after I sent that I looked for my head lamp so I could walk in the dark to be there at sunrise. Well, I thought God had other plans. I fretted a bit about losing the head lamp, thenet it go. I met some nice young women staying in the out building, like me. Lizzie is from Vermont, Gree is from San Francisco, and Jess is from Seattle. Greer and Jess had head lamps and said I could walk with them. I woke up at 5:30am but no one else was up and they didn't have breakfast open until 6:15am, so I went back to sleep. I woke again at 6:30 and packed up. Jess and Greer were ready to go for breakfast at the same time I was. I had some coffee and Lizzie came in and we all started talking. By the time we left, the sun wasn't up but it was lightening. So I didn't need a head lamp and I got to see the sun rise as I walked to the Cruz de Ferro. The moon wasn't nearly as spectacular as yesterday. So all was well. 

I got to Cruz de Ferro and Jess took a picture of me and the bears. I set everybody's stuff on the Cruz and took pictures. I'll send them when I'm near wifi. I don't know if I told you but Berry's tail came off during the early days of the Camino. He decided he wanted to take it to Cruz de Ferro and let it go. His buddy Mr Burple doesn't have a tail, so Berry decided he didn't need one either. After that the hike was brutal. It was downhill pretty much all the way for another eleven miles, most of it very steep and rocky. My knee started hurting.

During the night a major fire started in mountains near where we are walking. In fact I think I walked right next to a place where it had burned earlier. The air quality was pretty bad until late afternoon. And a bug flew in my mouth and got stuck in my throat. I tried spitting it out, drinking water to wash it down, but nothing worked. After about half an hour it came out. It was probably a friend of the flys. lol I don't know what it is with me, fires a d Northern Spain. Every time I'm here there's a fire. When My hubby John and I were here in 2006 in a little village on the northwestern coast of Spain, in Galicia, there was a fire that caused us to be evacuated from our hotel. We got to spend four hours on the beach watching the helicopter land on the beach to drop off firefighters and then make multiple trips out to the ocean to pick up water and bring it back to drop on the fire. It was fascinating and a great photo opp. Then last year I was walking the Camino and was in Calzadillo de Los Hermanillos when a fire broke out in the Leon mountains right in front of me. I saw huge clouds of smoke and the air quality was very bad. Then again this year. Maybe it really is all about me. 

I got to Manjarín in time for the morning blessing by Tomás to the Ave Maria sung by Joan Baez. Couldn't be more perfect. At my next stop, I took an extra long stop, put some Volaran anti inflammatory crime on it and put my knee brace on. I had planned to go to Ponferrado, but I promised my knee that if there was a bed available in Molinseca, the town before Ponferrado, we would stop there. There was a bed available in a nice albergue, Santa Marina. So here were are. I took a shower, did my laundry, iced my knee and put some more Voltaron on it. I'll ice it a couple of times tonight and see how it is in the morning. No panic. I've already done the Camino, so whatever happens is in God's hands. Who knows, I may be home early. 

While sitting on the porch, snacking on some olive oil potato chips and queso, I met Mike and Marion who are from the US and had stayed in Bercianos while I was there. There are actually several people that seem to be on the same track as I am.

Well I had a yummy dinner here at the albergue with Mike and Marion. We had lentil soup, ensalada mixta, and spaghetti. For desert we had a cling peach, a slice of pineapple, and a small slice of plain cake. Just right for this peregrina.  

Didn't have any access last night, so I couldn't post this. Just wanted to let you know my knee is better this morning and is being a brave little soldier. 

Day 64 - Villadangos del Páramo a Hospital de Obrigo- September 17 On the Camino 26 days

 Day 64 - Villadangos del Páramo a Hospital de Obrigo- September 17

On the Camino 26 days 

OK I forgot some stuff from yesterday, so let's all put on our Star Trek uniforms and jump into the time machine. Beam me backwards Scottie!

Yesterday morning I was in the Cuarto de Horno, so referred to because it has an old wood burning oven (Horno) in it. Anyway the door to this room is at the foot of the stairs where the pilgrims come down from the dormitory. We slept on mattresses on the floor in that room the night before we left, so the new hospitaleros could have the Hospitalero room with the beds. For me it was also so I could start to get in the mind set of a peregrina living out of a back pack. 

Well while I was in that room I was talking to the bears asking them if they were ready to be bearegrinos again and stuff like that when I heard some Peregrinos come down the stairs. I thought "oh no, I might start another Ramon story." Ramon was a character in a book about the Camino by Irish travel writer, Jack Hitt. Ramon was a Hospitalero in a strange albergue that was falling down. He was shall we say really untethered. He talked to himself and answered himself in a different character. This moment was reenacted in the movie "The Way." I thought there could be a Ramona who talked to bears. lol 

As I was walking out of León one of the Spanish ladies slowed down so she could walk with me. We conversed in Spanish. She has a daughter who lives in Florida. When we got to her house she asked me in, but I declined. I was in a walking mood. Shortly after this I came to a gated community, in Spain that's rare. After that I came to. Cluster of houses built into the earth. It looked like Hobbitville. 

This morning I was the very last person out of the albergue. Stephen left quickly after I was awoken from a sound sleep at 6:50 am by some Peregrinos out in the eating area talking and laughing really loudly and asked "why the f*** are those people making so much noise." I think he had trouble with peregrina Nancy. He was used to hospitalera Nancy, who would never talk like that. I had already decided to slow my pace down a little and one reason is I've found it difficult to be on the Camino with people who met me as a hospitalera. It's just weird. 

Today I walked from Villadangos to Hospital de Obrigo. Last year I flew through this town early in the morning. I'm staying at a "green" albergue run by a bunch of Spanish hippies who looked like they are in a time space warp from the Haight Ashbury cerca 1968. They have vegetarian dinner and breakfast, so I'm having a big American style steak for lunch with some Pimientos de Padron . They also have a yoga class before dinner and a hydro massage shower. The Parador should have one of those. It was marvelous. 

I am incorrigible. I had baked chicken last night for dinner and steak today for lunch. But I haven't killed a fly in five days. The mornings and nights are chilly and the middle of the days are warm. The period of warm is getting shorter. It's Fall. 

OK the cow is getting it's revenge. I haven't eaten that much solid beef at one time in years. Even when I have a rib eye at Outback I can only eat half of a small one. I don't know what possessed me to eat half a cow along with French fries, Pimientos Padron and in a moment of final insanity a big dish of flan with whip cream. I think I exceeded my calorie, cholesterol, sugar, and every other level for the rest of the year. My stomach feels heavier than my back pack. lol Then there was an amazing vegan dinner here at the albergue. We had cream of string bean soup and baked eggplant stuffed with onions and the flat fungi, and vegan apple cake. All of it was delicious. I could kick myself for having such a big heavy lunch, but maybe my body needed the protein. Or maybe the devil made me do it. ;)

Tomorrow I go to Astorga and the Chocolate Museum. I'm wondering if it's anything like Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Also the fifteenth century cathedral is said to have a nice Baroque facade and one of the best Renaissance retablos on the Camino. And that is saying something. I'll let you know what I think when I see it. It was "completed by a disciple of Michelangelo." Usually the word apprentice, student or follower is used for people who have worked with or followed the style of a great artist. Like the Bears are my apprentices. :) But disciples is the word the guide book used. Maybe because it is a cathedral. It might be a close race between the Chocolate Museum and the Cathedral unless the retablos is made of chocolate. Hehehe

The yoga class was really nice. It felt good to stretch. It was similar to hot yoga because the door was closed and the sun was shining on the big plate glass window next to my mat. Now I'm going to stretch my sleeping muscles. Good night Peregrinos!

 

Day 63- León to Villadangos del Páramo - September 16 On the Camino 25 days

Day 63- León to Villadangos del Páramo - September 16

On the Camino 25 days 

Well this morning was wild in the kitchen with six hospitaleros, three of whom were trying to remember as much information as they could to pass on and three of whom

were trying to process and and remember as much information as they could. This in addition to all the morning breakfast stuff, like cutting and toasting the bread for forty people making coffee, heating milk and water, putting out the margarine, jam, Nutella, answering questions from pilgrims, filling their water bottles, accepting their thanks and wishing them Buen Camino. Oh yeah, and washing the glasses and spoons as fast as possible because we don't have enough. Like I said, "wild."

So we got all that done, had breakfast ourselves, and packed. Then there big hugs and tears in my eyes as we said our good byes. I got a picture of all of us on the stairs and a picture of the bears. Then Merusa and I took off for León. By this time I was pretty sure I was going to walk to the next town, which was 4.5 miles. Merusa and I got almost to León when Rosa calls Merusa to say I had forgotten a bag with some pills in it. Merusa relayed the conversation and asked of I wanted to go back. I didn't want to, if it had been almost anything else I wouldn't have. The what she called pills were boatmen B2 and magnesium I take to prevent my ocular migraines and the medicine I take sometimes when I get them because the prevention, very effective is not full proof. I've tried to buy the B2 in Spain and have been unable to find it so I bring it with me. 

These things are necessary because my ocular migraines are scary and very uncomfortable for my whole body. So Merusa turns around cheerfully and says, "No pasanada," (it's not a problem, no big deal) I felt bad but it was a lovely drive. We spent much of it talking about how she wished she could walk with me and talking about the California Missions. She wants to come to California and walk the Missions. She asked me to vet her some information and I promised her I would. She dropped me in León. 

I went to the info office and found out where the Correos was, then I to the Correos and mailed some stuff I had used in Bercianos to Santiago. Then I started to walk. I intended to go 4.5 miles, but I felt pretty good at 4.5 miles. I was dancing to the music on my iPod as I went along, poles clacking on the ground to keep time. One young couple who had beenbat Bercianos when I was there passed me then I would pass them. One time they came up behind me and made dancing movements and smiled. They had been watching my antics. We all laughed. By the time I stopped I had walked 13 miles. That doesn't sound like much until you do it with back pack. Since I didn't leave León until 11:30, I didn't get to Villadangos del Páramo  until 4:30. 

I met a man named Stephen who had also been at Bercianos and we ended up as room mates in Villadangos. The young couple is here too. I did my routine took a shower , washed my clothes and ate. Now I'm so sleepy I can't keep my eyes open.. Today when I stooped for coffee, the young man working at the bar asked me where I was from. I told him and he said I spoke Spanish very well! On that note I think I'll go to sleep.      

Day 62- Bercianos - September 15 - Day 15 of 15

Day 62- Bercianos - September 15 - Day 15 of 15

It's so hard to believe that it is already day 62 and one month from today I will be home. At least that's my plan, we'll see what God has in mind. lol. All the new hospitaleros are here and we've spent the day explaining what we do. It is amazing how quickly the chores got done this morning with six people doing them. It was like magic. We even had time for lunch. On of the guys only speaks French the others are retired from the Silicon Valley and were involved in international business development so they are multilingual. I think they speak Spanish, English, French, and Italian.  Giovanni made us spaghetti al dente for lunch. I don't know if I spelled it correctly, but it tasted great. 

I spent some time getting my pack organized and packed. I'm also moving from the bed to a mattress on the floor. I want to get back into pilgrim mode. Right this minute walking a one block seems difficult, but I think it's just a matter of putting it into gear, at least I hope so. 

It's been crazy here today with six people in the kitchen and three or more languages being spoken. I've just tried to convey the information I have knowing that the next three hospitaleros will find there own rhythm and way of doing things. The expression "it's not my pig and it's not my farm" seems to fit the situation well.  So I am ready to go. I am sad in the sense that something is ending and filled with excitement and anticipation at something that is beginning, another chapter. I may stay in León tomorrow night or I may walk a few miles after I get my extra stuff mailed to Santiago. We will see. 

And one of the pilgrim's from APOC, Charlie, has bee following my blog came to the albergue today! I sat next to him at dinner and we had a nice chat until I had to get up and start the clean up. Hopefully I'll see him in the morning and be able to wish him a Buen Camino. 

Last night Rosa gave me a bead bracelet with silver beads the on one side it has two yell beads and two red beads representing the Spanish colors and on the other side it has a green, white yellow and red bead representing the colors of Rioja, because she lives in Logroña which is in the province of Rioja. Rioja is also the wine capital of Spain. I was so touched. 

Merusa (actually I found out she spells it Maruxa) said she wish she could walk the rest of the Camino with me. 

I had a nice chat with a couple of young pilgrims tonight about Siddhartha while watching that happen. One of them heard Charlie talking about my blog and asked for the address. It is interesting the people you connect with on the Camino.

Well morning comes early around here so good night all and happy trails to you.  

Day 61 - Bercianos - September 14 - Day 14 of 15

Day 61 - Bercianos - September 14 - Day 14 of 15

Well today has not been mundane. The trip to the church in Gordaliza del Pino

was very interesting. From what I understood from the explanation Jorge was giving to Rosa and Merusa in Spanish, the church was built in the tenth century. And they have a picture of their patron saint on one of the walls, I didn't catch his name. He was depicted in battle armor in such a way that supports the tenth century idea. Under the picture on the wall was a box (casket) in an area enclosed in the same material as the wall sort of a pocket holding the box. When Jorge opened the lid of the box, there were bones inside. Now I've seen many crypts in many cathedrals with a likeness of the person carved on top and I've always wondered if there was a person inside. I guess so. But this one you can check on. 

Then there was a picture of death and the two places you can go after death. It reminded me of style of the Bosch painting, "Garden of Earthly Delights" which in fact is in the Prado museum in Madrid. Anyway the depiction of heaven wasn't so interesting, but the on of hell had devils with large red tipped penises. 

Then we proceeded to the back of the church where there were skulls embedded in the wall. That is something I've never seen before! Rebekah told me that sometimes when they are building a church, they find bones, because maybe it was a burial site or battleground, they put the skulls in the wall either to remind people of the resurrection or to preserve these people for the resurrection. Something like that. Don't hold Rebekah to my explanation. My mind tends to drift during conversations, probably because it is untethered. 

After seeing the church and Jorge's house, garden and garage; we went to Sahagún and had breakfast, shopped at the mercadio, the ferratería, and Bazaar Chino. By the time we left we only had two hours left to get home, get our day's cleaning done and be ready to greet pilgrims. I don't know what has happened to me, but I figured it would all work out. Rosa and Merusa were in a panic, so much so that Merusa missed the exit for Bercianos and we had to go down the road a piece to turn around. There was a flurry of Spanish between them. I just suggested "respiran." 

On the way home we dropped Rosa at the tienda to get the eggs for cena (dinner.) we got the albergue and realized Rosa had the keys. We drove back to the tienda and got the keys. Rosa hadn't even been waited on. Remember my post about the tienda a a social event? Merusa and I went back to the albergue and unloaded the stuff from Sahagún and started cleaning. 

I was in the hallway and I heard someone's voice through the broken bathroom window that is covered by a towel. I thought it was a pilgrim wanting information, but it was Rebekah come to visit. What a nice surprise! She came in and after hugs immediately asked what she could do to help. So she helped me with my cleaning and we chatted. The Camino provides help when you need it in many different ways. 

We were ready for the pilgrims before the time set to open. And they came, in droves. Every square foot of space has a body in it. One of the hospitaleros who will replace showed up and started helping with dinner preparations. He seems nice, but he only speaks French, so we couldn't talk except with sign language. I took a siesta. By the time I woke up, the place was packed and there were voices in many languages, laughter, confusion, and gratitude. About 5 pm the other two hospitaleros who are replacing us arrived, but I think they saw the packed house and decided they would rather stay in Sahagún tonight and return in the morning. Too bad, they missed a yummy dinner. 

So now it is time to say good night my friends. I've had waves of sadness today realizing tomorrow is my last day and I will be leaving my new friends. But, I'm also excited to be back walking the Camino as a Peregrina. 

I will be posting more pictures (especially of the things I shared about the church) when I get some time with wifi. I realized the pictures use a lot of data.