Day 74 - Sarria a Portomarín - September 27 - On the Camino 36 days

Day 74 - Sarria a Portomarín - September 27 -  On the Camino 36 days

I woke up this morning about 6:30am, packed up, went to a local bar for café y tostado. I had heard it was going to rain. I was hoping it wouldn't rain or if it did it would be after I got to wherever I was going. I started walking and when I got to the end of the town and the town lights, I realized I hadn't got my head lamp out to wear this morning bso I had to stop, take off my pack and look for my head lamp. Meanwhile a man hearing noise outside his house came out to investigate. When he saw a disorganized peregrina he must have decided his property and his life were safe because he was very friendly. He asked me if I wanted help with my head lamp and commented that I was going to need it because it was very dark outside the town. He wished me a Buen Camino, I walked on and he went back in his house. 

About half an hour into the walk it started to sprinkle, so I stopped again and put on my rain jacket and the rain cover on my pack. Lucky I stopped and did this because it began to rain and continued to rain for the next seven hours. It vacillated between steady rain and pouring rain. Those of you who know me well know I hate rain. I think it would be nice if it only rained at night while I'm sleeping, so the plants and flowers would get the water they need and I wouldn't have to experience rain. What?! I think this is perfectly reasonable. For those of you who profess to like rain, I don't believe you and a pox on your house. I love heat, dry heat. I think snow is tolerable on post cards. That's all the closer I want to get to the "evil white."

I love the meseta in summer when it is hot and dry and full of Peregrinos jovenes. But I survived. And arrived at the albergue in Portomarín soaked to the bone. At some point I stopped, had a café, and put on my rain pants. But at that point I was so wet it didn't matter. For the first few hours I tried to avoid the puddles on the trail by stepping on the rocks or high spots. My boots are water resistant, but not water proof.  After a while it was useless, there were no rocks or high spots, just water. The people with water proof boots told me that today it didn't make any difference. Their boots got soaked too. My main concern about my boots getting wet, is that wet boots encourage blisters. I think they do more than encourage them, I think they cheer them on. lol. 

Now that I have finished whining, I must admit that the color of the landscape in the rain is other worldly. It's like neon or psychedelic. Sara, Bruce and Matty said that Galicia is a lot like Ireland, only better. When I wasn't staring at the trail trying to figure out the water patterns, like some real life puzzle, I really loved the colors. Even the dead hay was glowing. It's supposed to rain for two to five more days. Just shoot me. :). I'm sorry I ever said the Camino was supposed to be hard. This is not what I had in mind. I was thinking physically hard up and down hills, being out often comfort zone mentally or emotionally, stretching spiritually. It may even include flies, snoring, rudeness, bug bites, disappointments, etc. but not rain for heavens sake. That is just way beyond the pale.  

So I get to Portomarín and the albergue is not right on the path so I decide to have a café before I go look for it. The pages from my guide book are sopping wet (I so wish some one would offer a good digital one) so I spread them out to dry while I drink my café. The pages are so wet that the ink has smeared. I put the pages between paper napkins to dry them. After my café I find the albergue. The women who work there are so excited I speak Spanish. I'm excited that someone thinks I speak Spanish. lol they give me some newspaper to put in my boots to dry them. I never heard of this before. Of course I avoid rain. I change into my dry clothes, arrange to get my wet ones washed and dried, and go to have a pilgrim's meal. I had ensalada mixta, roast pork and fries, and ice cream cake. I ran into the two nurses from Canada at the restaurant and we chatted. 

After eating I go to the mercado and get stuff for breakfast. Yes, I'm going to try this again. Wish me luck. Then I came back to the Albergur and now I'm icing my knee with the ice pack they gave me to use.   

There are lot of people coming to make reservations for tomorrow night. Apparently some folks are going to lay over until the storm blows over. The taxis were also very busy today picking people up off the Camino and taking them somewhere dry. It's nice to know there are some rational people in the world.