Sunday, September 22, 2013

Day 66 - Astorga a Foncebadón- September 19 - On the Camino 28 days

Day 66 -  Astorga a Foncebadón- September 19 - 
On the Camino 28 days

A surprising morning. The first surprise was that I woke up at 6am an got walking before 7:30am. And I am so glad I did. There was a full moon and about 8am as I was leaving the out skirts of Astorga it was on the horizon to the west just as the sun was coming up from the east. Both were inspiring sights. And the funny/ surprising thing about this is that last night I set my alarm for 6am. Then when I was writing my blog I noticed I wasn't enjoying it, I felt rushed. And then I realized I was feeling rushed because I had the alarm set for six. So I thought to my self, "turn off the alarm silly girl. If you are supposed to be up at six, you will be." And I was, and I was. Incredible

The next surprise had to do with my flip flops. You know the pretty purple ones I bought in Santiago, because I left mine at home? Well at Bercianos every once in a while I would feel a sharp poke and I just figured it was a little rock with a sharp point. The flops are the cheap kind and not very thick. But it was always the same flop in the same spot. Every once in a while when it would happen, I would check the old stone. I'd never find a sharp stone. Well this morning I had the flop in my hand for some reason and there was a thumb tack in it. Duh!

My next surprise came this morning when I came down stairs to have my yogurt, melon and cabra (goat) cheese for breakfast. It was gone! I'm starting to think nasty thoughts about people stealing my food when I notice a sign on the shelf that says "libre" meaning free. I forgot all about this. I don't know why it didn't come up before on the Camino. I remember from last year that albergues with kitchens and refrigerators often have a shelf where you can leave food you don't want for other pilgrims. Well, I had left my food on the shelf that says basically, "somebody left this, please feel free to eat it." lol so I had some instant coffee and some of my artisan chocolate bar with big almonds and took off. 

We started a long slow twelve mile climb followed by a kick ass four mile steep climb over a very rocky trail. The twelve miles were work but fun. People kept telling me I was a fast walker. I don't feel fast at all. Them one woman from Seattle asked what was my mission or purpose with the bears. I said they are my friends. She asked if she could take a picture of them because they were so cute.  During the last four miles when I just didn't think I could take another step, I was wondering if they might have an airlift taxi available. 

Well I finally made it to Foncebadón and went to the Mount Irago albergue because my guide book said it had good food, vegetarian meals,yoga, and a moderate hippie vibe. Sounded like just the thing for me. I got here about 2:30pm which is not late on the Camino, but they were full, completo. But the guy said he had an extra place. I asked if I could see it. We walked by a goat, through a bunch of chickens running around and rabbits to an out building with mattresses on the floor. I said, "muy bien." He said the bathroom is upstairs. It was five euros instead of the normal eight. I found out later when two American girls came in that these were the only places in town. Everything is full. Apparently there is one albergue that holds forty people that has bee under construction for a year or so. It was supposed to be finished last year. So there are not as many beds as the guidebooks say. Anyway, grateful to have a place to rest my weary body. Oh yeah, the toilet is the Chinese style squat affair. Not a big deal it's a lot newer and cleaner than the ones I used for a month in China. Besides I squat by the side of the road. This is a lot cleaner and private than that. 

So I'm stretching and listening to Lizzie, a young woman from Vermont and the other two Young Americans from San Francisco and Seattle talking, when suddenly I hear a young man's voice with an Italian accent ask to the room in general, "Do you mind if I chafe my underwear in here. I was startled, because on the Camino people run about in all states of undress. There's just not accommodation for a lot of privacy. You get used to it real quick. I figure I'm never going to see these people again. Last night I was treated to a couple of sights I could have gladly lived my whole life without witnessing. One was a back view of a sturdy built woman from Vienna in a thing that was two or three sizes too small. It looked painful. ;)

Tomorrow, if God agrees, I will see the sunrise and almost full moon set at Cruz de Ferro. For all of my friends who gave me things they wanted to let go of, this is your last chance. If you want back whatever worry, problem, resentment, etc. speak now. I've already carried across Spain and up that nasty hill, but if you want it back, I'll bring it back to you.  Otherwise, take a deep inhale, and with the exhale say, "it's yours God."

Signing off for now. 

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