Day 20 -Orisson to Roncevalles - August 5

Day 21 - Orisson to Roncevalles - August 5

Well the day started with an exquisite sunrise viewed from my window in the Albergue with my German family roommates. The a quick breakfast of coffee, bread and jam. I got a ham and  cheese bocadilla to take with me for lunch because there are no cafes in the mountains. Got pack organized and off I went. It was a hard climb up that mountain, but absolutely exquisite views. We were above the clouds for the morning and early afternoon. So there was sunshine with a back drop of clouds below. 

I cannot believe the difference between this year and last in my enjoyment of the moments. I stopped every five or ten minutes whenever there was a nice view or scenery to take pictures and take a breath. When I reached the Virgen, I took my pack off, took some pictures and rested. When I reached the van with snacks and drinks I got a semi cool Aquarius, took my pack off and had a picnic eating my sandwich. Last year I didn't take my pack off once during that climb. When I came to the van I got something to drink, gulped it down and off I went. I did mellow after a week or so, but the first few days I was kind of possessed of an urgency. 

Today there were moments when I just stopped and looked out at the view an said, thank you God. I was also overjoyed when I crossed the border into Spain. I thought, "yea, I'm almost to café con leche" and then came this incredible valley of trees. It was beautiful last year on a sunny day, but it was even better this year in the mist. 

My cheering section must be increasing because there are so many more purple flowers along the way. Every time I look down and see them I smile. I also find myself stopping and cheering the caterpillar on to get across the trail before he gets stepped on or run over by a bicycle. 

While walking this part today I was thinking I'd like some of my ashes scattered here so That some part of me would be in Spain forever and on the Camino eternally. It wasn't a depressing thought by the way, in fact, it was strangely uplifting. 

I ran into Juan a few times during the day. Bruce and Arlene and Juan and I are having dinner together tonight. The German family and Magdelena and her family are here as well. Bruce and Arlene said they met an Irish guy and English girl who had met me today and that I was quite a chatty Kathy. The strange thing is I don't remember meeting anyone or talking to anyone today. Maybe they overheard one of my self directed conversations, ie, talking to myself. lol

There has been a little kerfuffel over my bed. I thought I had bed 269, so I put my stuff on it. When I came back from having the café con leche I've been craving for two days there was a young man on my bed and all mu stuff had been shoved to the end he said this was his friends bed and that I had bed 249. The 4 looked like a 6. So I went to  249, but it had stuff on it. So I went to ask the Hospitalero if there had been a mistake. He said no I had bed 249, but that the Spanish woman who had the bunk above mine wanted my bunk. He said he had told her that the bunk was taken. So he came and moved her stuff to the top bunk. Then he asked if I spoke Spanish. I said I spoke enough to explain that this was my bed. lol. I'm thinking it must be some old Spanish lady and maybe I would give her the bunk despite the fact that my knee hurt. But she is about 20 to 30 years younger than me, so no way. 

She's here now with a man and another woman who has the other lower bunk and doesn't seem willing to trade with her either. I think I'll go see if my laundry is done. Well no blows were thrown, all is well I hope she doesn't fall out of the bunk, I might feel guilty. 

Just had dinner: yummy pasta dish, trout with french fries and flan. It was great! The four of us are meeting in the morning to walk the first short distance to a place for breakfast. 

Here is a poem that Huberta, the owner of L'Esprit du Chemin gave me and the other peregrinos, on a card in English and in Spanish:

Wanderer, it is your tracks

which are the road,

and nothing else;

By walking,

the road is made,

and when glancing back,

you contemplate the trail

which you will trample 

no more.

Wanderer, there is no road

only the wakes on the sea

Antonio Machado

The bed kerfuffel turned out fine. This morning we were talking and sharing information. They are from Logroño and, like a lot of Europeans are doing the Camino in two or three week chunks, because they work.